For a house once led by pinot noir, Pol Roger is increasingly focusing on chardonnay in its vintage wines, and recent vintages of its Blanc de Blancs demonstrate why. The power and precision of the grand crus of the northern Côte des Blancs coalesce in the rich 2009 harvest to produce a beautifully refined blanc de blancs that captures the finesse and fragrant delicacy of Pol Roger. Dainty lemon and grapefruit lead out, backed by the understated succulence of white peach and the crunch of nashi pear in a long-lingering palate of bright acid line and frothing salt minerality. Almost a decade of lees age has begun to build a creamy texture and lingering, understated complexity of nutmeg, almond nougat and honey. It propagates with great persistence, sustained by the bright acidity of Pol Roger, even in such a warm vintage.