Planted in 1988, it makes it one of the older vineyards in the program of Giant Steps. This used to be fertile ground for sparkling wine, particularly Yarra Bank (Yering Station) fizz, but the vineyard has been changed up for table wines. This vineyard is one of, if not the highest vineyards in the Yarra at 405-plus metres above sea level. This was my favourite chardonnay of all the 2018 releases (well, alongside Ocarina) though I saw it as level-pegged to Sexton Vineyard. It had the most je ne sais quoi.
Scents of flint and wet slate, wet fern, green apple. Nice start, says something about restraint and minerality in its way. Crisp and cool in the palate, transparent, light but steely and assertive in texture and pristine. The wine develops some juiciness after time, green apply sort of feel, a touch peppery, saline, flinty finish maintains as a strength. A quiet power here, lots of character and architecture, and, importantly, sense of deliciousness and refreshment. Super individual and super.
95+ points – Mike Bennie , Winefront
$54.99 each, or $51.99 in any 6